155 Fewer Steps, An Eternity More: The Legend of Karataş

In the urban fabric of Izmir—a city that has survived fires, earthquakes, and the passing of empires—there stands a structure raised not as a monument to war, but as a monument to empathy. The Asansör, an imposing tower of crimson brick, does more than connect two streets; it connects the cosmopolitan past of ancient Smyrna with the vibrant modern metropolis of today.

1. The Chasm That Divided a City

In the late 19th century, Izmir (then known worldwide as Smyrna) was the most prosperous port in the Levant. The Karataş neighborhood was home to a thriving Jewish community and wealthy merchants. However, the local geography presented a brutal physical challenge: a limestone cliff that separated the coastal area from the upper plateau.

For decades, citizens were forced to climb the famous “Karataş Stairs.” For a young merchant, the ascent was a daily exercise; for an elder carrying groceries or a mother with her child, it was an impassable barrier. The tragedy of a respected neighbor, Mr. Devidas, whose fall on these stairs left a mark on the collective conscience, became the catalyst for one of Turkey’s most romantic works of civil engineering.

2. Nesim Levi: The Visionary Banker

In 1907, Nesim Levi Bayraklıoğlu—a banker whose fortune was matched only by his philanthropy—decided that charity should not be limited to giving money, but should transform the community’s infrastructure.

The project was a logistical challenge for its time, and no expense was spared:

· Marseille Brick: Instead of local stone, Levi imported thousands of bricks from France. These bricks arrived on ships that, after unloading their cargo in Europe, returned to Smyrna using the construction material as ballast.

· Hydraulic Engineering: Originally, the elevator was a marvel of physics. It operated on a water-counterweight system. Water accumulated in an upper tank, allowing the weight to lower one cabin while the other ascended—a silent, eco-friendly mechanism avant la lettre.

3. The Street of Nostalgia: Dario Moreno

To reach the foot of the tower, the traveler must cross Dario Moreno Street. Formerly known as the “Street of the Elevators,” it is now a sanctuary dedicated to the most international artist the neighborhood ever produced.
Moreno, a Sephardic Jew who achieved fame in France as a singer and actor, never forgot his roots in Karataş.

Walking down this cobblestone path, flanked by Greek and Ottoman-style houses with wooden bay windows, the sound of his hit “Si tu vas à Rio” or his odes to Izmir seem to emanate from the very walls. It is here that the travelogue becomes a sensory experience: the scent of jasmine from nearby gardens and the clatter of backgammon tiles on wooden tables create the perfect prelude to the ascent.

4. The Ascent: A Journey Through Time

Entering the lobby of the Asansör, the temperature drops, and the echo of footsteps on marble transports you back to 1907. Although the motors are now electric (following renovations in 1985 and 1993), the interior design retains that industrial Art Nouveau flair.

The journey lasts only a few seconds, but as the iron doors open at the top, the reward is absolute. What was once an inaccessible stone wall becomes a platform suspended over the Aegean. From here, the city’s silhouette unfolds: from the skyscrapers of Bayraklı to the hills of Kadifekale.

5. The Sunset Ritual on the Terrace

The upper level is not just a point of arrival; it is a destination in itself. The wooden walkway, crossing over the void, vibrates slightly with the sea breeze.

· The Municipal Café: Here, luxury is not found in the prices (which are very affordable as it is publicly managed), but in the location. Ordering a Türk Kahvesi (Turkish coffee) as the sun turns orange and dips behind the Foça peninsula is a near-sacred ritual for Izmir’s residents.

· The Restaurant: For those seeking a culinary experience, the Asansör restaurant serves dishes reflecting a blend of cultures: fresh Aegean fish, mezes made from wild herbs, and sweets that recall the Sephardic and Ottoman legacies.

6. A Symbol of Resilience

Unlike other monuments that charge exorbitant entry fees, the Asansör continues to fulfill its original mission: it is free. It serves as a reminder that technology and architecture should be at the service of humanity. In a world of cities growing outward, the Asansör reminds us of the importance of growing upward—keeping our feet in history and our eyes on the horizon.

Why visit today? If you seek the “heart” of Izmir, you won’t find it in a modern shopping mall. You will find it here, in the creak of the elevator doors, in the smiles of the elders who still use it to avoid the stairs, and in the breeze that blows at the top of Nesim Levi’s tower.