Where the sea receded: A journey to the ruins of Adriake.

On the southern coast of modern-day Turkey, where the turquoise blue of the Mediterranean melts into the rugged Lycian mountains, lies a place that often goes unnoticed by the hurried tourist. This is Adriake, the ancient port of the majestic city of Myra (modern-day Demre). While many arrive in this region seeking only the famous rock-cut tombs or the Church of St. Nicholas, Adriake offers a unique window into the infrastructure, commerce, and daily life of one of antiquity’s most fascinating civilizations.

The Logistics Hub of a Confederation

To understand Adriake, one must first understand the Lycian League, the world’s first democratic union. Myra was one of its most influential metropolises, but a city of such magnitude could not survive without an efficient outlet to the sea. Thus, Adriake was born—not merely as a fishing pier, but as a fortified port complex designed to project Lycian power across the Mare Nostrum.

Founded approximately in the 4th century BC, the city witnessed the transition from local kingdoms to Hellenistic rule and, eventually, to the Pax Romana. It was under Roman control that Adriake reached its peak splendor, becoming a vital cog in the machine that fed the capital of the Empire.

The Emperor’s Legacy: Hadrian’s Granary

The monument that dominates the landscape and justifies the visit on its own is the Horrea Hadriani (Hadrian’s Granary). Built between 129 and 130 AD during one of Emperor Hadrian’s famous journeys through his eastern provinces, this building is a marvel of Roman functional architecture.

Measuring about 65 meters long and divided into eight independent sections, this limestone warehouse had a critical mission: to collect and preserve surplus grain from the fertile Lycian region to be shipped to Rome in times of scarcity. Today, following an impeccable restoration, the granary has been transformed into the Museum of Lycian Civilizations.

Walking through its inner naves, where the cool air of the stone still lingers, allows the visitor to grasp the scale of ancient trade. The museum doesn’t just display stelae, coins, and ceramics; it explains how the Lycians managed to maintain their own identity even under the Roman eagle.

A Crossroads of Faith and Commerce

The history of Adriake is peppered with illustrious names. In the biblical realm, the port takes on a special prominence in the Acts of the Apostles. It is recounted that the Apostle Paul, while being escorted to Rome for trial, disembarked at Adriake to change ships. This detail is significant; it confirms that by the 1st century AD, Adriake was a top-tier maritime transport hub with regular connections crossing the central Mediterranean.

But it wasn’t all religion and grain. Adriake was also a luxury industrial center. Archaeological excavations have revealed massive deposits of murex shells, the sea snail from which Tyrian purple was extracted. This dye, which required thousands of mollusks to color just a single garment, was the ultimate status symbol. Imagining the shores of the port stained with this royal hue gives us an idea of the wealth that once flowed through these stone streets.

The Decline: When the River Silenced the Sea

Why did such a prosperous city end up in ruins? The answer lies in a geological phenomenon known as siltation. The Andriakos River, which fed the area, deposited sediment and mud over centuries. Slowly, the coastline receded, pushing the port away from the water and turning the docks into stagnant marshlands.

Compounding this natural problem were the Arab incursions starting in the 7th century and the instability of the Byzantine Empire. Deprived of its vital function as a port, Adriake languished until it was buried by sand and forgotten—a fate that paradoxically helped preserve its structures until modern archaeologists brought them back to light.

The Modern Traveler’s Experience

Today, visiting Adriake is a sensory experience. Unlike other archaeological sites dominated by asphalt and noise, here the visitor walks through wetlands that still host migratory birds. You can explore the remains of ancient baths, the commercial agora, and one of the oldest synagogues discovered in the Anatolia region, demonstrating the tolerance and cultural diversity that defined this port.

The setting is almost mystical: the ruins of Byzantine churches rise amidst the brush, and the harbor structures that once received ships laden with oil and wine now look out toward a coastline that has retreated. It is the perfect place for those seeking unfiltered history, far from the crowds of Ephesus or Hierapolis.

Suggested Itinerary: If you plan to visit the area, I recommend starting early at the Tombs of Myra, continuing with the Church of St. Nicholas in the center of Demre, and ending the afternoon at Adriake. The sunset light hitting the stones of Hadrian’s Granary is, without a doubt, one of the best postcards you will take home from Turkey.